WTB 1993 Civic Si Intake

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[Vicar]

It's a really hard one to call..........I want to say my butt dyno is right but you have a valid point in that butt dyno's can be very deceiving and sometimes very wrong.  For now I am going to at the very least drop the bottom half of the stock intake off(resonator ewww) and see about the possibility of an airbox mod.  The airbox mod I had on my Cobalt is dyno proven and flow tested, if I can replicate the same airbox mod for the civic it may just net me the extra flow numbers and with a proper tune extra hp.  All in all the airbox mod won't cost me anything, can't hurt to try it right?

FYI, K&N to my knowledge does NOT test at all beyond sea level, AEM tests a various altitudes.  If I did the airbox mod I would be looking for an AEM dryflow to replace the stock airbox filter.

if you wanna buy one cheap just lowball someone on beyond.ca

but I think marcl is right.

also, you just bought it?

try a full tune up.  run it like that, especially if it's not been modded yet!  stay in a stock solo 2 class and work on driving.

how about try an Alignment?  go to Jason Morrow at Country hills toyota and get a GREAT alignment that's autocross friendly?

[Audi200tq]

stay in a stock

+1
Your Civic is in HS is a PAX giant-killer.  Work on your driving first.  Get a performance alignment.  Do anything you can (legally) to reduce weight. Then look for performance dampers (Koni Yellow), front anti-sway-bar and tires.  HS Civic is a momentum car, rewarding smooth inputs, speed maintenance and always looking ahead: you will build great driving skills that can be transferred to other cars/classes.

Soon you'll start beating up on more prepared and higher HP cars.  That will be fun.

[rx7racerca]

on a stock civic, no real difference will be noticed. as me how i know you willl however notice a decrease in fuel economy... and some noise.


money is better spent on tires/wheels suspension. the corner go fast bits.

+2 on stay stock, where your car can be reasonably competitive, spend money on stuff that will make a real difference, and learn to drive a slow car fast. Driver skill tranfers nicely to your next car, too.

[Spec Volcanic]

Please stop it...
This thread is taking away my will to live...

[midnightsky]

Please stop it...
This thread is taking away my will to live...

how so? all the above posts are extremely valid points.

Johnny yes I did buy it, after driving it I'm happy I got it and will not need any intake for it, it is a SOLID car. I test drove a CRX last week and it felt like it was going to fall apart while I was driving it.  It will be getting a safety inspection done sometime this week or next week, suggestions where I could get one done for a good price?  It will need some better tires asap, the ones on there are ok for DD but I am not sure I would take them on the auto-x course.  I will be doing what I can to tune it up over the next few weeks, don't know much about the 1.6L engine in there but have started to do various online reading about it.  Any advice on specific tune up items I should do on this civic?

[Vicar]

how so? all the above posts are extremely valid points.

Johnny yes I did buy it, after driving it I'm happy I got it and will not need any intake for it, it is a SOLID car. I test drove a CRX last week and it felt like it was going to fall apart while I was driving it.  It will be getting a safety inspection done sometime this week or next week, suggestions where I could get one done for a good price?  It will need some better tires asap, the ones on there are ok for DD but I am not sure I would take them on the auto-x course.  I will be doing what I can to tune it up over the next few weeks, don't know much about the 1.6L engine in there but have started to do various online reading about it.  Any advice on specific tune up items I should do on this civic?

cool, for specific tune up maybe Marc will pipe in?  I am not much of a honda guy, but the basic, plugs, wires, Motul for the motor.  More advanced?  Koni yellows were mentioned?  or new bushings to firm up the ride on an old car?

for an inspection, Country Hills Toyota, cause you can get marc to inspect it, and Jason to do a sweet alignment.

lot's of good options around

as for tires, I would wait about a month to see what the guys in the states are the most competitive on for summer rubber.  then call us at VEX and we can get your tires for you, anything else you need too! 

haha

anyways, congrats on your new car, it will be a great teacher, like everyone on here says!

[CRXsi]

As for tune up items use ONLY Honda parts! They won't run properly on anything but. Plugs and distributor rotor are due every 48k on them. Fuel filters are due every 96k. Timing belts are every 100k or 7yrs. If you have no record when it was done just do it! If it was not a Honda belt I would redo it (i have seen many non-honda belts break early) as these engines are interference (meaning valve damage can occur if the belt breaks).

Overall these Civics are extremely good, reliable and cheap to maintain.

As for an inspection you can also bring it to Okotoks Honda and float my name as I have large amount of pull there. we can also do performance alignments if needed. PM me first so I can get the right guy on the job to make sure what you want gets done. A Honda dealer may be able to spot certain things that some other shops might not know to look for but in the ned as long as it is a highly recommended shop you are ok.

Things to look out for depending on mileage, front upper ball joints seem to go around 170+k. Waterpumps seems to like to leak every 140k or so (do it with Tbelt if it has not been done recently). Valve covers can have minor leaks (no charge with Tbelt). There are a few other items but usually there are complaints associated with them also.

One thing to note with any Honda VTEC engine is if they are driven hard they do use oil. It has to do with how the VTEC is applied and is normal. Honda's spec is 1L for every 1500km is considered normal. In other words if you drive it hard check your oil every fill up at least. If used on the road course it is wise to check your oil level after every run. Some VTEC motors use oil quicker then others but they all do. As for good synthetic Motul is awesome oil but if this is an older engine you don't need to speed uber$$$ on Motul. I use Mobil 1 in all my Race Engines. The key is regular maintenance. Even the best oil if not changed when it is due will cause damage. Honda uses Petro Cananda products from the factory. Petro Can Duron is good oil as well. Oil lectures are a whole other story but one thing to look into if your bored is the difference between group 3, group 4 and group 5 oil...some interesting reading.

As for the transmission I would use ONLY Honda Manual Transmission Fluid. I have seen way too many failures with other concoctions of oils. Redline being one of the worst in Honda Transmissions, and I normally like Redline oils....MTF is due every 96k on your car.

Any questions don't hesitate to ask. I am currently off work on paternity leave so I won't be able to do the work for you directly if you come to Okotoks Honda but I can get one of the eager beavers who love performance stuff to do it. I will be back to work May 3rd however. By the way Okotoks Honda's Labour rate is $95 an hour...cheaper then anywhere in the city.

[midnightsky]

I have a massive folder full of all the maintanence records to look through, it'll probably take me over an hour to go through it all but at least it's all there.  The owners father gave me some extra Motul and the engine has been given Motul it's whole life, personally I'm going with Mobil 1.  The ad has been taken off kijiji but there was also a whole list of things recently done including balljoints and i think also tierods, it will all be in the records.

Jason has recommended "Option Import" to me, anyone know much about them? Should I just goto Okotoks Honda after talking to Gord?

[Spec Volcanic]

Option Import is a Forum sponsor and many members have used them and have good things to say about them and I have never heard anything bad about them...

But...

I high doubt anyone knows more about, or has more experience with this Gen of civic (or CRX) you can see from his post... If I was you and it was after May 3rd I would be talking to Gord

[midnightsky]

I made a mistake, it was not Motul oil it was AMS.

[jasonrmorrow]

I actually just suggested "not me" ! The only experience I have with the CRX is staring at Marcs
and helping him align it twice.

Take it where guys know the car. Gord looks like your man. Gives you a few weeks to sort things
out too.

[marc l]

post some pictures up of it!

[RSX-TACY]

Autocross competition locally is nothing to brag about anyways.. unfortunately we don't quite have the same number of competitors and events as the guys in the states.

I say, go nuts.  Do whatever you want.

Although the car may be good in H-stock.  It's my perspective that it seems like you are not really interested in being competitive and winning anyways.  Not enough to get a whole new set of wheels and r-compound tires anyways.  All it takes for you to lose in H-stock even if it's a good H-stock car is for somebody to show up with some wheels and over-sized r-compounds.

Even if you want to autocross, STS is a good class for the Civic anyways and would be better suited for you since you don't have to worry about changing wheels/tires every event and buying a set of wheels/tires specifically for racing.

In regards to intake not making power... it will make power, I guarantee it.  Intakes (especially cold air intakes) will make power.  I see it on RSXs and I see it on other cars at dynos in Calgary so I don't think anybody can dispute that even if it only makes +3hp.

What's the general rule of thumb?  Every hp you try to add to a car will cost you $100?

+1 on the tune up, engine clean, fuel filter change, injector cleaner, spark plugs, Motul and you're on your way to a happier, healthier car.

[Talonman]

I found the best way for me to make power on the Laser is a 9/16 and 5/8 wench

[tsi_neal]

What's the general rule of thumb?  Every hp you try to add to a car will cost you $100?

I found the best way for me to make power on the Laser is a 9/16 and 5/8 wench

This is so true for turbo cars, $100 per hp, lol... try $15 for 50... well it does start costing more after that but your first 50hp is practically free